Signature Room is a feast for eyes

A letter received:
“Have you eaten at the 95th Signature Room lately? Our anniversary dinner was one of the best dinners we had in a long time. We dine [out] frequently in Chicago and truly enjoy great food. Jason Paskewitz, the new chef de cuisine, created a fabulous meal for us. For the friendly and efficient staff, delightful food and the spectacular view of Chicago, we give the restaurant two thumbs up!”
Diana and Richard Packman, Chicago

Sorry, I don't do thumbs, I do stars. Frankly, it had been a while since I tried the food at The Signature Room® atop the John Hancock Center, so the letter was a good reminder to see what the dining room with a view was up to. And I do get a lot of letters inquiring about restaurants that offer a seagull's view of our fine city (there are only three, in fact, and that's not nearly enough). The same question always comes up: Is the food as good as the view?

Overall, The Signature Room® is a pleasant place to dine. Outstanding view, nice service and good food. You will notice I said "good food," not great food. I need to address the service issue, because that has a direct correlation to the good food. To put it simply, the food arrives too fast. The question then is, was this dish really cooked to order? Or was it simply reheated? Obviously not everything can be cooked to order, but there is enough method to the madness of any kitchen to get it tasting
right - reheated or not.

Let’s take, for example, the asparagus and crab meat strudel appetizer (call it a contemporary wrap). Certainly this is made ahead (as it should be). Kept warm, sliced and arranged with "black kale and a sun-dried tomato aioli (garlic mayonnaise)," the dish has potential. The problem was that the crab meat was mushy not to mention bland and tasteless. To add to the woes of this dish, the kale had a really bitter taste. The asparagus was good, though.

Very nice was the cured Atlantic salmon "scented with tequila and lime." Excellent appetizer. Nicely presented, the thin, rosy, luscious salmon was spread across the plate atop blini (mistake, since the moisture from the salmon turned those buckwheat pancakes to rubber). The usual garnishes - capers, chopped red onion and whites of hard-boiled egg - were further enhanced by the black lumpfish caviar and dollops of creme fraiche.

Soup is always a good first-course option. The standard lobster bisque came off rich and smooth, with a pronounced lobster flavor. Soup of the day one night was a tomato-fennel affair laced with bits of pheasant sausage, and it had good flavor, too.

An entrée plucked from the "Signature Selection" was grilled Atlantic cod. A nice idea here is that "10 percent of the proceeds donated to the Les Turner ALS Foundation." How can I say anything unkind about a dish from this menu? No need to. The cod was cooked perfectly, served simply and enjoyed immensely. The cod fillet was arranged over leaves of sorrel that were anointed with garlic and lime juice. There was no sautéed salsify as promised, though since the kitchen was out of it. No big deal.

Excellent from every aspect was the applewood-smoked pork chop, a thick, meaty, fine piece of meat with a full-flavored bourbon and molasses barbecue glaze. A "relish" composed of crimson lentils, Granny Smith apples and sweet corn was wonderful (and I am not a big fan of lentils).

Grilled tenderloin came forth exactly as ordered and had that good mineral flavor associated with quality beef. Tender, too. The steak came with Yukon gold whipped potatoes that were very good. (At one dinner I ordered a side of whipped new potatoes, and they were outstanding.)

Desserts did not overindulge my sweet tooth. "Signature Tiramisu Cake with Cappuccino Sauce" was a spongy, flavorless, disappointing concoction that could give this overused, overworked dessert a worse name than it already has.

On the other hand, the blueberry tart a la mode was a huge success. Practically big enough for two to share, this warm and comforting beauty with its "cap" of ice cream was yummy yummy.

Signature Room at the 95th
875 N. Michigan
John Hancock Center, 95th floor
(312) - 787-9596

3-COURSE DINNER: $42 before tax and tip

HOURS: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday – Saturday;
Dinner, 5-10 p.m. Sunday -Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday;
Sunday brunch, 10 a.m. 2 p.m.

WHEELS: Nearby parking garages. Wheelchair accessible, but elevator and levels to deal with

TRY: Cured Atlantic salmon, lobster bisque, pork chop, grilled tenderloin, blueberry tart

TIPS: The Tourists making their journey around the room can be disarming to diners. Comfortable in every other way, though. Pleasant service. Can be romantic at the right hour. Obviously everybody wants a window seat, but overall, the sight lines are excellent from just about any seat. Children might be menu-challenged at dinner, but the Sunday brunch would work. Very good wine list (though not as good as it used to be). Reservations recommended. Rooms for private parties abound.

IN A BITE: No better dining view in Chicago. Prices are up there a bit (a subtle premium for the scenery), and on occasion the kitchen missed a beat or two. For special occasions, though, this place is hard to beat.

-From Chicago Sun-Times "Dining with Pat Bruno"